The blog of the American wine writer Michael Apstein
BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE 2013
Note:Oddero is one of Barolo’s top producers, Rocche di Castiglione is a top site in Castiglione Falletto, and 2013 was an excellent year for Barolo, so this wine’s stature is no surprise. Floral and pretty, it emphasizes elegance over power, although it still packs plenty of the latter. Prominent firm, but not astringent tannins, enrobe cherry-like (red rather than black) fruity flavors. Balanced and quite easy to taste even at this young stage, I suspect it will close up only to reemerge with even more complexity in a decade’s time
BAROLO RISERVA VIGNA RIONDA 2007
Note:From Vigna Rionda, an acclaimed vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, Oddero has fashioned this still — at 10 years — a youthful wine. Oddero started to label wine from this vineyard as a Riserva with the 2006 vintage and released it after 10 years of aging, five of which were in barrel. With a tarry, iron-tinged signature, the 2007 is a quintessential Barolo from Serralunga. Still firm with a noticeable tannic structure, this tightly wound wine reveals its substantial charms with time in the glass. A dense and hefty wine, it still needs another decade of age. For those without patience or a cool cellar, decant it an hour before serving it with a cut of robust beef this winter.